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While flying back from the 2005 Avalon Air Show to Perth in April with Geoff Longworth of Northam in his Jabiru J400, the idea crossed my mind of hopping up to Darwin in July. We would depart from our Serpentine Aircraft Builders Club (S.A.B.C.) which is 95kms south of Perth to visit my physio son Steven and his partner Gemma. Ainslea and I could then have a 12 day flying holiday in the Kimberleys, and fly home via Broome. YSEN (Serpentine Airfield) to Darwin is 1567nm, about the same as YSEN to Avalon, Geelong, Victoria.

Preparations began in May with the 50 hourly, new plugs, oil filter. Checked the nose wheel mounting plate, brakes and tyres. Radio was reconfigured to Ed Smith's specifications, thanks Ed. Rick Graves and I flushed the two 70l wing tanks, changed fuel filters, completed the factory oil pressure plate modification, and fitted the $77 new factory carburettor economy jet kit. Dave Mills kindly loaned me his hand-held radio as a spare. I tested the EPIRB and updated all my charts.

On a beautiful Sunday morning at 0800, Ainslea and I in Jabiru 3435 lifted off 05 for Newman via Northam, Mount Magnet and Meekatharra, a total distance of 527nm. After a stunning start to the season, farmers' crops looked like a continuous lawn below us as we cruised at 055, against a head wind of 10kts. Our planned TAS is 110kts at 2750revs.
Inbound call at Meekatharra on 126.7 and later while reporting downwind for 09, Malcolm chimed in offering fuel and was there to meet us as we shutdown. Terrific service, call-out fee has been reduced to $50. Avgas $1.35pl (incl gst)

Pleased to say the new fuel economy had worked well for the 3.3litre 6 cylinder engine as our economy was now 18lph, previously 22lph, quite a saving. The last 206nm to Newman cruising 055 was a little warmer, a sign of things to come.
Final on 05 takes one over a wonderful winding river. Tarmac tie down wires are provided with BP swipe card fuel. Optus mobiles are useless, so it's Telstra all the way to Darwin. CDMA is not really necessary except at Cape Leveque. Stayed at the All Seasons, couple of G&Ts at the bar, then a superb meal and an early night.

Monday has us in the air at 1100 hrs cruising once again at 055 with 4 oktas for Warrawagine Station, only 163nm away, over-flying Nullagine. Over the Nullagine River on final for Rwy 13, a huge gravel 2000m long runway. Owner Robin Mills met us and directed us to peg down next to his C172 hangar. Introduced us to his wife Lyle, our hello gift was fresh fruit and the morning paper, all were most welcome. We were here by special invitation, please note it is not a tourist stay station.

After tea, Robin surprised me by inviting me on his early dawn patrol mustering flight. We were in the air as the sun peeked over the hills, flying at 300ft to meet two R22 choppers who were already searching for cattle stragglers 30nm east of the homestead where the property borders onto the Great Sandy Desert. Camels coming in from the desert are a pest Robin told me. "There are 500,000 out there somewhere increasing at 10% pa. With 'roos, dingoes, and now camels competing for limited feed, it's become a major concern for the stations"

The RT chatter is continuous between all three aircraft and bikes on the ground. Lots of flat plains below, so Robin has the C172 with first stage flap around 75/85 kts between 100 to 250 feet. He was very kind and kept the turns well within my tummy limits. After 5 mins, I felt very relaxed. We also flew fast grid patterns straight and level across this huge country spooking cattle out of low scrub towards the waiting R22's. At $400 wet, per hour, per chopper, one needs to find plenty of cattle. After a huge morning tea back at the homestead, we headed off the 195nm to Broome via Sandfire.

Although Broome is an MBZ one must report inbound on 126.0, 30 DME (the ATIS 126.55 is hopeless at this distance). Flew around Roebuck Bay; took longer than I thought, reported overhead, and was cleared to join downwind for RWY 10, length 2368m!! Final over Cable Beach, superb view on approach. There is a taxi phone in the GA green transportable building, Mobil swipe card. BP fueller Mel is just brilliant. Avgas $1.33pl (incl gst)

Taxi into town to our favourite coffee spot, Blooms. After two lovely relaxing days and nights at a friends place, we took off to Kununurra, 378nm away, with a waypoint south of Derby and just north of Curtin Military Airstrip.

We dropped into Mt House Station for morning tea with Nigel and Kate Westlake. They were most appreciative of Ainslea's gift of the morning paper, glossy fashion magazine and wine. Nigel flies a R22 and a fixed wing.

With blue skies above we climbed out for Kununurra over flying El Questro. Viz was poor with bushfire smoke right at 055. Just had to fly around it all...

Kununurra, final on Rwy 12 bitumen, length 1829m. Refueller was there in a flash, great wire tie downs. Then into a taxi for the hotel and a stroll about town. Superb pearl and pink diamond shop displays. Found a great coffee shop in the town mall.

Next morning we began our final leg of 234nm to Darwin over flying Legune Station and the massive Victoria River mouth delta as it empties into Joseph Bonaparte Gulf.

By now Ainslea was becoming very conversant with navigation terms, magnetic variation, lat's and long's, hemispherical heights, plotting track and bearings, plus all the other flying/navigation terms we use. With me on the GPS and Ainslea on the charts, we really had a smooth system operating. Certainly most helpful in taking some of the office duties off me. With the new rudder trim tab it was easier for her to balance the Jab during her short but very welcome flying duties. Previously her longest flights, say three hours (320nm), have been to her home town Esperance. YSEN - Darwin is equivalent to five Esperance trips.

Pressing on over the table top Macadam Range it was not long before Daly River Mission slipped under our wings, then Batchelor and finally arriving overhead Emkaytee (ERSA), a private club strip approx 30nm South of Darwin  CTAF  127.1.

The main runway 07/25 is narrow gravel. The south-easter had a nice rotar happening over 07's trees on late final I can tell you. ETA was 1030, Steven could not believe we were right on time. Told him we were always on time!

Lovely two days catching up with the big fellow and Gemma. Darwin 's waterfront development is a knockout, had a wonderful night at the Yacht Club while Northern Territory Day was celebrated with fireworks. Real estate values have gone ballistic since the military build up, plus the opening of the large gas/oil fields. Values of residential houses have increased from a modest 2.5 % since for ever, to approx 10.5%pa over the last two years. Rents are high, so that's attractive for investors. On Sunday morning Steven drove us out to Emkaytee. Steven backed his ute up while we added 40 litres of super Mogas to our remaining 90 litres of avgas, thereby insuring good safety endurance for the longer 310nm route back to Kununurra.

Held the Jabiru down on the long Rwy 07 picking up speed, we shot by the farewell group at 80kts and climbed out, tracking south to Katherine, following the highway. We turned west at 40nm DME Katherine towards Timber Creek. The majestic wide Victoria River below is a splendid sight, cutting its way between the Pinkerton and Yambarrran Ranges to Bonaparte Gulf. No grass fires/smoke on this route so a much more relaxing flight compared to the direct "Croc Country" route we flew on the way up to Darwin from Kununurra.

We both agreed that once in the Kimberleys it is usually only two to three hours or less to most fuel destinations. YSEN to Broome is 1020nm. Once there, all destinations are close.

Once again into town and a late morning coffee in the town mall. Relaxed for a few hours and then back into the air for the 2.5 hour flight to Fitzroy Crossing to meet Ainslea's sister Celeste, husband Rob and their son Shannon, who were on a Broome to Darwin bus tour.

On the Kununurra take off, the aircraft felt heavy, surface temp. 32 deg, had to take three step-up's of 1000 ft a time to get to cruise height 045, otherwise the oil temps would be in the red , cylinder head temps looked good. Once level, I would set the revs at 2700 wait about 10 minutes for the temps to drop, then full throttle and up another 1000ft.

The new jets and needle were working well at full throttle, very reassuring to watch the EGT dropping 8 degs as the richer mixture cooled her down. Once the temps had dropped back the Jab would cruise nicely at 2750 revs. (18lph).

On descent to Fitzroy Crossing it was a lovely sight coming in over Geiki Gorge, Fossil Downs, Brooking Springs at 1630hrs with the low sweet light slanting across the ranges We both love the modelling effect of low soft light across the landscape. Taxied in off Rwy 01, bitumen 1330m long. These long runways I'm told are a left over from the pioneer days of MMA DC3's, plus of course modern commercial heavies.

Once again wire tie downs, unload and take a taxi into the Fitzroy Lodge. As the Rodeo was in town, the front bar was rocking with an even mix of tourists and locals of all colours dancing the night away. Following day was rest day around the pool, temp 30 deg. Had an entertaining taxi tour around the town with Terry, an ex long-distance truckie. He told us "You know the supermarket in the new town has roo tail  in the freezer, choice is, skin on or skin off  "

Terry showed us the main "taxi tree stops" that the locals use. When I asked what the long tin cans were hanging from the odd tree, he laughed and said that they held condoms and were placed strategically near the river campsites.

Terry took us for an afternoon traditional drink at the old Fitzroy Crossing Pub.

"Don't come here on your own at night Mike", Terry said. I had sat in the same outdoor bar 40 years previously on a overland safari trip from Perth to Darwin .

As we were loading the Jabiru to depart Fitzroy, four light twins landed followed by two C210's. It's the tourist season folks. Make damn sure you fly hemispherical as most aircraft are below 9000 and tracking back and forth between the busy half a dozen main tourist strips.

We flew out over Geiki Gorge to Wolfe Creek Crater 140 nm to the south east. The Crater is 70nm South of Halls Creek. Superb viz, no smoke, nil wind, nil cloud, pilots' heaven! Wolfe Creek Crater is 850m wide with 50m sides, quite a sight.

Then onto Halls Creek runway 04, bitumen 1480m, BP swipe card here. Hotel is only 300m away. After checking in we hopped straight into the pool, then a beer of course. Caravan Park is nearby, the owner also owns Oasis Air. Think we will be using Caravan Parks in future as they range from $70 p/n in Halls Creek to $90 p/n in Kununurra. Celeste, Rob and Shannon's bus pulled in at 1700hrs to the Halls Creek Hotel. We all strolled into town and found a great coffee shop next to the Tourist Bureau. Noticed Mogas at $137.9pl.!!Avgas 137pl (inc. GST)

Halls Creek to Bellburn (Bungles) is only 55 nm north. Although researching the Bellburn/Bungle procedure, i.e. clockwise at 2500ft  reporting CTAF 127.3, I quickly found out that all the C210's with tourists are all on East Kimberley freq  127.2. Anyway, I did not like it at all and soon realized that the "Bungle Clockwise circuit" was much larger than I imagined. Unfamiliar with the route and feeling very much the new boy, I advised I was climbing out and departing, tracking nor'west direct to Mt Hart Station, 194nm away.

More grass fires and smoke, so more ducking and weaving. Hot day, so revs back to 2700 while she cooled. I wanted to climb to a cooler height but was stymied by thick smoke level at 045, so had to keep just under it. I wonder if the Shell 15/50 is as good as the straight 100 oil in this warmer weather with the Jab heavy and engine working hard while on climb?

Coming in over the Leopold Ranges into Mt Hart, one can see the new resurfaced whitish coloured strip. The road into the homestead looks similar from a distance; however it is at right angles to the actual strip. Drum fuel is by arrangement, just phone ahead first. This is now a non working cattle station owned by CALM. Annabelle and Taffy have a lease around the old homestead and offer wonderful gourmet meals, hospitality and lovely traditional accommodation.   "Gotta' go back there", we said. 

Met some great people here who invited us to join them with beautiful prepared hamper avec champagne for a Kimberley sunset drink high on a hill overlooking the homestead. A most memorable evening.

Next morning we decided not to go to Mitchell Falls, Horizontal Falls etc. They were all booked out and the thick smoke had us worried.

After a relaxed breakfast Taffy topped up the tanks. During the take off Ainslea who always watches the revs for me, but has as yet, never said anything called "Not yet!"

Somewhat surprised, I held the Jab down for a few seconds longer. Right at this point a gaggle of about 30 pink and grey galahs flashed very low, from right to left, just above the cockpit at only 20 feet.

If I had rotated when I was going to, we would have had a messy multiple bird strike. The strangest thing is that Ainslea told me afterwards on climb that she had not seen the birds at all! Someone watching over us? … "I'm sure of it"

The lesson learned here I think is that although we are concentrating ahead down the runway as well as scanning instruments, we also have to think of the high possibility of birds in our pre-flight preparation and have a quick left right elevated scan as well during the roll. After all we are entering their domain.

Tracked west to Cape Leveque only 150nm away flying overhead Derby.

It was a lovely sight tracking coastal over Cygnet Bay Pearl Farm. Pearls have been farmed here since 1905. With a nice tail wind, after only 80mins from Mt Hart, found us downwind over the water for RWY 14. Looking down to my left at the sapphire clear water, white beaches, white lighthouse, and the vista is a WOW. Late final over the beach, then the campsite, tanned faces looking up and onto 1200m of gravel. No fuel here or alcohol so BYOG. After pegging down the plane it's a short stroll of only 200m to the office and campsite. Public phone here, mobiles no good, CDMA works fine.

Ten minute walk over the hill to the beach and into the water. "Not too deep", they said. Then lunch followed by coffee at the Cafe. One can feel the tension melt away. "Wonder how long all this has been going on"? I said. That evening we could not resist a sunset fly over One Arm point and Lombadina, these settlements certainly have the best airstrips. Most relaxing two days in this 30deg, balmy weather.

On the third morning we flew 100nm south to Broome before heading for Newman a further 359nm on. After 55 minutes we were coastal base for Broome RWY 10 again. You guessed it after fuel we called a cab and once again into town for brekky and our coffee fix at Blooms in Carnarvon St.

Departed Broome about an hour later and while at cruise and just relaxing Ainslea exclaims, "What's that black oil streak running back along the top of the cowl?" Yep, muggings forgot to screw down the oil dipstick. Inspection flap was holding the dipstick in but not tight enough of course. Nothing for it but turn back to Broome. Getting good at this procedure now. Qantas, inbound, on descent above me from the south asked me to reconfirm I was returning and my position. Notified my DME and bearing Broome and that also I would hold south over the town for him, received a nice compliment from the Captain. After landing, still mad with myself, took off the cowl, checked the oil level, it was fine.  Screwed it in properly this time, checked ATIS and got going again for Newman. We were now an hour behind schedule.

Tailwind of 20kts meant the weather Gods were smiling. We quickly made up the lost time and tracked over Sandfire and Warrawagine.  A showery front crossed our track at our cruise height, reckon if I had have been an hour earlier we would have run into it.

Landed Newman at 1630 hrs with threatening dark clouds just visible 50nm away to the West. Perth weather was still looking good and I wanted a clear run in over the hills from Northam and very was anxious not to be held up. Silly, silly me you guessed it. We got 5.5 inches of rain over the next two days. I'm talking rain that looks like vertical silver straws streaking down. No wind, just torrents of rain. The locals were wrapt and said "This wildflower season will be a ripper!"

While in the local shopping centre, we met Robin Kennedy of Cottesloe, who kindly invited Ainslea and I to dinner with her husband Peter. Lovely night and a beautiful meal.

During the afternoon of the second day, the base lifted from 300ft to 2500ft with light showers. Whipped out in our hire car the 22 kms to the strip to check the Jab... found the inside floors wet, seats wet, fun, fun. Dried everything and once more used our BP swipe card. Had an early night ready for the long leg of 586nm to YSEN, still eager to take advantage of the current clear conditions from Northam over the hills into YSEN. Woke up nice and early, "great no wind" I said. Stuck my head out the door and saw a fog base of 100 ft, so thick it actually felt wet. Back to bed.

Out to the strip at 1000 hrs. to find Skywest and Qantas circling 1000ft above the Newman elevation of 1725ft. They held for 30mins, then diverted leaving about 120 frustrated passengers. Most of them had come off night shift and were not impressed. At 1300hrs the fog cleared at last leaving Bkn Str Cu at 3000. Remember we are 1720 ft elevation. Headwind 12 kts, hmmmm not going to get to far before last light of course. Going to miss the clear weather window over the Darling Range into YSEN. That's VFR flying for you. Fuel at Meeka again, no call out fee, as today is a week day.

Decided it would have to be Mt Magnet overnight so used our Telstra mobile over the town and organized accommodation at the Hotel. No taxi service in town however the visiting English barmaid said she would pick us up. Straight onto base Rwy16, pegged down and into town with Clare. We had the most entertaining night in the bar with the locals. Amongst them was the prospector who discovered one of Australia 's largest gold nuggets, the famous 27kg "Hand of Faith". Ainslea, who has a family background closely tied to prospecting and gold mining, had a great time swapping gold nugget stories and inside information on how to find the magic metal! Often these impromptu stays are memorable ones.

An overcast low base and scattered showers welcomed us next morning as we climbed out of Mt Magnet with good viz. and 20 kts on the nose. Only 1000' AGL. very bumpy, getting banged about, slowed it down for structural safety and comfort. Only 219nm to Northam, however rain showers and viz. is now worsening." This is not good " I thought, so near Dowerin I did my downwind landing checks and prepared for a landing to wait it out. Found the strip, slowed down and hung about circling for twenty minutes with a stage of flap at 75kts at 800AGL. Surplus fuel is a bonus in this situation, "money in the bank" as they say.

Then hey presto! the sky turned blue and we shot through to Northam. Fuelled the two tanks , had a chat to the weather man. He suggested we wait till after 1300hrs for the cloud to lift over the hills. So no hurry now, a taxi into town, early lunch with a coffee of course, then back to Jabiru 3435.

Flight inspection complete and we are in the air tracking to a point 32nm from Northam just south of Mt Dale. At our turning waypoint we only had 34nm to YSEN. Nearly home. Conditions are not as forecast, far worse in fact, black streaky curtains of rain about 10nm away, approaching, wind 270/30kts with gusts. Seat belts notched up, don't want to bang my head.

Made two penetrations eastwards only to see the viz. deteriorate. Hmmm this is not good, really bumpy now; rough flying. Ainslea was worried and asked the question. Did not blame her one bit. The 100 kilos of fuel in the wings was now a weight bonus in these conditions. Slowed her down to 90 kts, backed off east for a while and had a hard think about things.

We flew south for 20nm while looking westwards for a clearer run through to the coast. The side door to the east was still wide open, needed that just in case. Really concentrating now. Must get this right.

Where was that forecaster's better weather and higher cloud base?

Seemed to clear here, so turned west. All seemed well for a while, then the Jab took a huge knock onto one wing, "Hells Bells!!" Events happened very quickly after that, getting squeezed between rising ground and the cloud base, only 800AGL, getting rougher. Those separate black curtains of rain are now only a mile ahead and have drawn closed, right across our front. "Not good, we're out of here baby".

A steady 180 deg. turn inland east to clear sky and back over cleared farmland. Turned north and after a few minutes there was York on our right and back to Northam with the help of a huge tailwind. Must have been an unexpected front, just had to be. "Clearing after 1300 hrs" the weatherman said ….WRONG .….

Anyway folks, after 50hrs of engine/flying time in 17 days, approx 4200nm, the last 34nm was the main challenge. Reckon 10% of engine time, 5 hours was warm up and taxi time with 17 landings/takeoffs.

After tying the Jab down at Northam (100 kms from Perth) we caught a taxi to Bakers Hill. While munching through one of their famous homemade pies, Geoff Longworth, (Northam J400 owner) drove from Sawyers Valley and picked us up. After a cup of tea, (yes we drink tea as well) at his place with his wife Jillian, he dropped us at the bottom of Greenmount where Ainslea's son Jon picked us up. Arrived safely home in Cottesloe at 1800 hrs with Jabiru 3435 still back in Northam.

Popped up to Northam on the weekend and brought Jabiru 3435 home to Sepentine.

Our attention to aircraft maintenance detail was worthwhile, as the trip was mechanically trouble free. We only added oil and fuel. The 6ply tyres we fitted instead of the standard 4ply tyres also paid off, no punctures.

This Darwin-Kimberley Coffee Safari was a real scouting flying adventure holiday to improve our schedule for next year. Ainslea is now a fully qualified "navigator" and we now know where the best coffee shops are.

We both agree, less flying next time, with longer stays in our favourite spots.

Can you believe it, the 50 hourly is due again!